The Slow Life: Isla Holbox

Article / antilophia.com

The international existence of Isla Holbox has relied discreetly on word of mouth but lately its irresistible unspoilt features have become more noticeable. A stark contrast to its more glamorous neighbours on Mexico’s Yucatan coast and a world away from the bright lights of Cancun, its beach shack buildings and blissful laidback lifestyle makes it more akin to Tulum in the early days.

Getting to Isla Holbox though requires a little more thought. After a flight to Cancun, a two-hour drive takes you to the town of Chiquila on the northern tip of the Yucatan peninsula and then it’s a 13km ferry ride across a shallow lagoon to the island. The term, ‘getting away from it all,’ was most likely coined by someone who visited this remote paradise hideaway, but then again, to reach what is nowadays classed as ‘undiscovered,’ takes a certain amount of effort. Isla Holbox though is certainly worth the journey.

Whilst residents and journalists debate prophetically about whether or not the island will become a victim of its own success, Holbox lies there beautifully untouched and waiting to be discovered.

Blazing white virgin beaches, luscious green jungle, intertwining mangroves and swaying coconut trees make up this tropical utopia. Sandy unnamed lanes replace tarmac whilst buggies and dune bikes are the only mode of transport. The lack of roads instantly make it feel like a wistful incarnation of a dream or a vision of the past where luxury lies in being able to walk around bare foot and hammocks are the preferred way of sleeping. Not that you have to - there are a couple of charming boutique hotels that are beautifully nestled on the shores and are also known for the best food in town. Lobster salads under palapas, sunset mojitos with fresh mint grown in organic gardens, live music and candlelit dinners on the beach whilst you dig your toes into the sand are all part of the unfussy, idyllic atmosphere.

Out and about, Caribbean coloured houses have murals that remain from the yearly International Public Arts Festival and sweet smells waft from various shacks selling homemade empanadas, thick cornbread, fresh herbs and flowers. Visit the crystal clear lagoon of Yalahau where you can watch dolphins swim in the morning or simply walk along the beach and encounter impressive birdlife such as flamingos, pelicans and frigate birds all making their homes here.

The main attractions though, one might argue, are the colossal whale sharks that bask in the waters from June to September absorbing plankton rich waters with their gaping open mouths. The summer holidays see the migration of these majestic creatures and the best way to see them is diving next to, or snorkelling above, their white spotted magnificent bodies.

Whilst residents and journalists debate prophetically about whether or not the island will become a victim of its own success, Holbox lies there beautifully untouched and waiting to be discovered.